At a glance The town occupies the rugged terrain in the southern foothills of the Aravallis in south-east Rajasthan. About the city The bird is black with a white crest and a red beak. The lotus leaf is its emerald island, Gaibsagar Lake its sea, and Dungarpur its preferred universe. The water ripples because of the waves created by your feet and the kikar trees on the nearby shore. The bird, still perched on the lotus leaf, avidly catches insects and eyes the small fish. The temple complex stands nicely blackened and ancient across the road from the lake, and the prayers emanating from there float imperceptibly on the water surface. The surrounding foothills are low and stooping, as if trying to imbue a sense of the countryside. The sounds of Dungarpur drift in indolently in the mild breeze the daily grind of the autorickshaws, the rush of the local bazaar and the resonant bells of the temple. Before that, as you approach Dungarpur, through the rocky, craggy terrain dotted with cacti bushes, mimosa trees and teak forest, the first sights will be typical of a small town. You will see jeeps heavy with men and boys hanging out from their doors, loud autos tumbling across the town and markets full of chemists and mechanics. You go past these, also past a small dam, and reach the newer palace of erstwhile Dungarpur kings part of which is today a hotel and settle in their lakeside, poolside open-air restaurant. Now you notice the surroundings again, and the town is not very far but appears distant. The tract is surrounded by hills, low hills but hills all the same and the name Dungarpur, the City of Hills now makes sense. Later, with some difficulty, you will tear yourself away from the soothing waters of the lake and visit the old palace. Then the very old past of the not-so-well-known kingdom of Dungarpur will slowly emerge from the closed cupboards and the forgotten recesses, enchanting you with its colours and its stories. How to reach Road: Dungarpur lies 21 km east of NH8, which links Delhi and Mumbai via Jaipur and Ahmedabad. From Udaipur, there are frequent buses to Dungarpur. Rail: Dungarpur Station is on the Udaipur-Ahmedabad metre gauge line. But Udaipur (100 km/ 2 hrs) is a more convenient railhead as the road journey to Dungarpur is shorter by 2 hrs. Air: Nearest airport: Udaipur's Maharana Pratap (Dabok) Airport (125 km/ 2 hrs), which is connected to Jaipur, Jodhpur, Aurangabad, Delhi and Mumbai. Taxi will cost Rs 1,200 approx. Journey Time Road: 2 hrs from Udaipur, Getting Around: The Udai Bilas Palace is situated right on the south bank of the lake. On the west bank is the dam that created the lake, now the notional centre of the town. Across the road from the dam is the Srinathji Temple. The old palace, called Juna Mahal, is 4 km south-east of the Udai Bilas Palace, and is approached by a bumpy road. The old fort is located on a hill rising above the Juna Mahal. Below it is the old Dungarpur Town. Your hotel is the best place to ask for a taxi; the charges are Rs 1,000-1,300 for a day for places around Dungarpur. In good weather, a taxi in good condition can manage the steep half a kilometre climb up to the fort. Autorickshaws can be found in the market next to the dam; they don't run on meter but the fares are usually Rs 25 for Udai Bilas Palace and Rs 50 for Juna Mahal. Distances 100 km South from Udaipur 496 km South West from Jaipur 752 km South West from Delhi From Jaipur NH8 to Kherwara via Ajmer, Beawar, Rajsamand, Nathdwara and Udaipur State highway to Dungarpur. Best Seasons October to February is best, July to August is pleasant when it rains. Avoid summers. Places in and around One of the reasons for coming to Dungarpur can well be that you want to do nothing. In that case, book yourself a room in the Udai Bilas Palace, grab a long chair near their pool all day long and just be. On the other hand, if you are in Dungarpur to absorb all that it has to offer, it has a trick or two up its sleeve. The antiquity and the hidden treasures of the Old Palace, the surfeit of birdwatching opportunities and the multi-cultural dimensions here take you by surprise. Dungarpur can keep you interested for two or even three days. Juna Mahal Literally the Old Palace, the Juna Mahal is well and truly old. Some claim, with justifiable reasons, that it is the oldest existing royal palace complex in India, perhaps in the world. The construction of the palace was started sometime in the 13th century and for about 650 years it was occupied by a single royal dynasty the Guhilot Rajputs. Throughout these centuries the palace building was growing, usually vertically. Now it is a wonderful edifice, nine storeys high, with two levels underground. The structure has suffered in the few decades of non-occupancy. The Juna Mahal has a dominant location on a 1,476-foot high hill atop the old township of Dungarpur, and its towering chhatris and engraved balconies are eye-catching even from a distance. The palace is made of a beautiful bluish grey local stone called pareva stone and is an exquisite example of temple architecture being introduced into royal residences. The decorative elements include pillars, brackets and arches; the carvings depict warriors, dancers and musicians. The interiors of the palace are a veritable museum its various chambers are tastefully decorated with ornamental mirror work, stone inlays and glass inlays. However, the most impressive are the paintings. There are depictions of gods, with Krishna and his playful stories being the favourite. There are court scenes and hunting expeditions. On the walls you will see Gangaur Festival being celebrated, the Bhils of Dungarpur being defeated in a battle by the Rajputs and a portrait of Queen Victoria. There is also a whimsical display wherein murals dramatising highly athletic Kama Sutra postures are concealed discreetly in a cupboard. You can spend over two hours at the palace. Location: 4 km south-east of Udai Bilas Palace; Entry fee Rs 150 Timings All day. Note: Tickets have to be bought from Udai Bilas Palace, and the caretaker at the Juna Mahal will show you around. Do give him a tip. Birdwatching Gaibsagar and the adjoining woodlands are great places to observe birdlife. November to February is the time for migratory birds and the monsoon months, from July to October, is the nesting season for local birds. Painted storks, pond herons, egrets and coots can be seen on the lake. The woods are home to the grey partridge, the paradise fly-catcher and the golden-backed woodpecker. In the marshy area between Udai Bilas Palace and the Juna Mahal, you can spot the sarus crane and the wading bird.