At a glance This holy beachside town is on the Karavali Coast, 37 km from Kumta. About the city This ancient temple town and centre of Sanskrit studies, called the Kashi of the South, has been attracting Shaivites for hundreds of years. After all, this is the place literally meaning cow's ear where Lord Shiva is believed to have emerged from the ear of a cow. In the last 15 years, the southern beaches of Gokarna have also been the hub of a new hippie culture, although not as obtrusive as Goa's Anjuna or Calangute of the 1970s. Gokarna's maze of narrow lanes and alleys are reminders of its hoary tradition, which continues to this day in the form of the ubiquitous Brahmin priests who busily go about their religious duties, or hail tourists offering them accommodation. The Car Street, which runs through the heart of the town, is typical of pilgrim centres, flanked by small businesses hawking knick-knacks, puja paraphernalia, souvenirs and foodstuff. Everything is quaint here the central courtyards of houses, the temple tank, wooden stairs, open gutters and the wandering sadhus. After you negotiate what is the last alley to the west of the town, you are thrown open to the sea. During Shivratri in February, the town gets so overcrowded with pilgrims that many choose to sleep in the porches of homes and under the awnings of shops. How to reach Road: Car: NH4 is rather busy but once you get to Bhadravati on NH206 and then on to Shimoga and Sagar, the route is more scenic, passing through lush green forests. Honnavar to Gokarna on NH17 is another lovely stretch En route halts Kamat Restaurant (Tel: 08134-251270) at Tiptur on NH206 serves South Indian vegetarian till 10 pm. Jewel Rock Hotel (Tel: 08182-223051) at Shimoga is another good option, with two restaurants. Bus: KSRTC has a daily evening deluxe service from Bangalore's bus stand near Majestic for Gokarna. In addition there's a VRL service too. Journey Time Road: 11 hrs Distances 486 km North West from Bangalore 37 km from Kumta From Bangalore NH4 to Tumkur NH206 to Honnavar via Arsikere, Shimoga, Sagar and Talguppa NH17 to Gokarna via Kumta Best Seasons Avoid the monsoon months from June to August, a dangerous time for swimming. October to February is the coolest period and the best time to go. Places in and around A walk through the main streets of Gokarna wouldn't take more than 20 minutes. you will spend most of your time in the temples or on the beach. Custom has it that devotees must bathe in the sea and pay obeisance to a shivalingam made out of sand before worshipping at the Mahabaleshwara Temple. Indeed, clusters of pilgrims can be seen taking a dip in the sea to wash away their sins. Once you are through with your spiritual mission, you can go beach-hopping. The temples The Mahabaleshwara Temple is a major draw here. The 6-ft tall atmalinga here is enshrined in a square called Saligrama Peetha and is opened for viewing once in 40 years. Now only the tip of the linga can be seen through an opening in the peetha. There is a charming legend about how the Mahabaleshwara Temple came to be. Ravana, on a request from his mother, performed severe penance and earned the atmalinga that bestows invincibility from Lord Shiva and was told by the lord not to place it down at any cost. The other gods were alarmed at the powerful boon granted to Ravana. While he was carrying it back from Mount Kailash, Ganesha tricked Ravana into putting the linga down. Ravana tried but couldn't lift the atmalinga. And there it remained down the ages, worshipped in the form of Mahabaleshwara. Devotees also visit the shrines of Ganesha, Bhadrakali, Venkataramana and Gokarnanayaki (also known as Taamragowri). To the left of the main beach and up a hillock lies Kotiteertha, where many take a sacred bath. The beaches If you are looking for some sequestered shores other than Gokarna Beach, there are four mesmerising options Om, Kudle, Paradise and Half Moon. But these involve a half-hour trek southwards up and down a craggy promontory, strewn with boulders. Some stretches are steep and narrow, with a view of the sea below you. Kudle is the first beach you encounter, snuggled amidst hillocks and paddy fields. Walk up another promontory for about 25 minutes and you will get a bird's eye-view of Om Beach, so called because, when its photos are inverted by enterprising designers, it appears shaped like the Hindu religious symbol Om. Walk down south for another half hour to reach the Paradise and Half Moon beaches, which are more secluded. But you will find relaxation at all four beaches and the walk over the rocks is well worth it. Keeping you company are a few thatched shacks, sun-burnt hippies, coconut trees and the vast blue sea. If you can't trek it, there are boats leaving from Gokarna which will take you across to the beaches for about Rs 100. For the trek on the headlands, wear shoes with a firm grip. Carry along a water bottle and snacks