At a glance Guwahati, the capital city of the northeastern state of Assam, was formerly known as Pragjyotishpur (the City of Eastern Light). Its etymological root is derived from two Assamese words, "Guwa," meaning areca nut and "Haat," meaning market. About the city An unfathomable river courses wildly along this city as ancient hills look on verdantly from the sides. It is a remote town, well connected yet largely unexplored. That is Guwahati for you. Hailed as the Gateway to the Northeast, this city hardly features prominently on the itinerant's map despite it being undeniable as to how much it has on offer - cruises on the Brahmaputra, occult practices in age-old temples, undulating tea estates, meeting tribals upclose, and of course a glimpse of the lord of the Kaziranga, the one-horned rhino. Guwahati, alike its Northeastern cousins, has a pristine beauty, waiting for that beholder with an eye to appreciate Festivals Bihu (April) The city comes alive during the harvest festival. The most colourful is Rongali Bihu, to celebrate the advent of spring. Women dress in new mekhela chadors (two-piece saris) and dance to the tunes played by the men on traditional folk instruments Shivratri (March): The best place to view this festival is the Umananda Temple where celebrations continue till the wee hours. Ambubachi Mela (June/July): Held at the Kamakhya Temple, it marks the end of the Goddess's menstrual cycle. Entertainment Visit Shankardev Kalakshetra for traditional Assamese dance, music and theatre. In fact, you can get acquainted with all the popular art forms of Northeast India here. You can watch movies in Assamese, Hindi and Bengali at one of these theatres: Bijuli Cinema (Fancybazar, Tel: 2543823); Meghdoot (Paltanbazar, Tel: 2543595; Anupama (Maligaon, Tel: 2570442 Nightlife Given the security situation, it is advisable not to venture out after dark. Also, that rules out any great nightlife. For those interested in a sundowner, the hotel bar/restaurant is best bet. Kidding around Assam State Museum The rich collection of tribal artifacts, religious sculptures, World War II relics and a reconstructed tribal village make this museum a must visit. The museum is on G.N. Bordoloi Road (Tel: 2540651); timings are 10 am-4 pm; Mondays are closed. Assam State Zoo & Botanical Gardens These are combined and make for a quiet walk. Guwahati Planetarium: You can catch astronomy shows in English at 12 pm and 4 pm everyday. For information, call 2548962. No adventure Sports facilities How to reach By Air There are regular flight services to Guwahati from Delhi (2½ hours), Kolkata (1½ hours), Imphal, Agartala, Aizawl, Dibrugarh and Jorhat. Indian Airlines and most private airlines run early morning flights to this northeastern city. The Borjhar airport, 18 km from the main city, is now an international airport. By Rail The busy and overcrowded Paltan Bazar railway station of Guwahati is the destination for many trains from every corner of India. There are four trains from/to Delhi, and many others to/from places like Kolkata, New Jalpaiguri, Chennai, Bhubaneshwar, Mumbai, Bangalore, Kochi, and Thiruvananthapuram. It is also well connected to the other important places of the state. By Road The excellent road network links Guwahati with Shillong, Kaziranga, Dimapur, Siliguri, Bomdila, Silchar, Hajo and Sualkuchi et al. Getting Around: Autorickshaws are available in plenty all over the city. Shared taxis are another economical option. Taxis are expensive but definitely more comfortable. Distances 30 km from Hajo 80 km Northwest from Manas National Park 215 km from Kaziranga National Park 240 km from Tawang Best Seasons Situated on the banks of the mighty Brahmaputra, at an altitude of 55 meters above sea level. The city experiences an annual rainfall of 180 cm (from May to September). While summer temperatures range from 22 to 38°C, in winters the mercury ranges from 10 to 25°C. Thus, in case you are planning your Guwahati visit in the summer season the cotton clothing is ideal else woolens are required in winters. The best time to visit this cosmopolitan city is from October to April. Guwahati enjoys moderate weather. Summer highs are only 33 C, but these months are dry and dusty. The rains last from June to September, when the Brahmaputra swells and runs over. So anytime from November to April is fine for a visit. But be prepared to battle some chilly winds if you venture there during the winter months. Places in and around Manas Wildlife SanctuaryThe Manas wildlife sanctuary, 176 km from the city, is situated on the banks of river Manas. It is the only tiger project of its kind in Assam. Pabitora, a small wildlife sanctuary, 60 km from Guwahati is also worth a visit. Rhino and various species of deer abound here. Hajo, 25 km west of Guwahati, is a sacred place for Hindus, Muslims and Buddhists. The town also boasts the Hayagriba Madhava Temple, accessible via a long stone stairway. At the foot of the stairway is a large pond inhabited by one of Hajo's oldest residents: a giant turtle. Hajo is also renowned for its bell metal work. Chandubi, 64 km from the city, is a natural lagoon and a fine picnic spot, 64 km from Guwahati. The lake is a perfect holiday resort, with ample fishing and rowing opportunities. Madan Kamdev, about 35 km from Guwahati, is famous for its impressive archeological ruins and the Durga temple dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. Sualkuchi, 32 km from Guwahati, is a village where almost all the inhabitants are weavers, involved in the traditional art of silk weaving. Tezpur is 181 km east of Guwahati, and is a town of both historic importance and adventure sports. Barpeta, 185 km from Guwahati, is notable for the monastery and shrine dedicated to the Vaishnavite saint, Sankardeva. Kamakhya Temple of Guwahati Guwahati is particularly famous for its Kamakhya temple situated atop the Nilachal hill, at a distance of 10 km from the railway station. Noted to be the most sacred among the tantrik shrines of Shakti worship in the world, Kamakhya, was built in the 10th century by the Koch king, Naranarayan. It is a common practice here to offer animal sacrifice to appease the Goddess. Above Kamakhya is another small temple, Bhubaneshwari, from where one can have a bird's eye view of the city. The Shiva temple of Umananda, reached by motor boats and public ferries from Umananda Ghat, stands on an island in the middle of the Brahmaputra. Atop another hill in east Guwahati is the Navagraha temple-the "temple of the nine planets,"-an ancient seat of astrology and astronomy. Housed in a red beehive-shaped dome, the central lingam is encircled by further nine representing the planets (graha)-Sun (Surya, Ravi), Moon (Chandra, Soma), Mercury (Buddh), Venus (Sukra), Mars (Mangal), Jupiter (Brhaspati) and Saturn (Sani). Two more were added, Rahu and Ketu, the dragon's head and the dragon's tail, or the ascending and descending nodes of the moon. Agni Garh of Guwahati Nearby, there is the Vashistha Ashram, an interesting old shrine, with plenty of verdure and three beautiful streams, Lalita, Kanta and Sandhya. It is at a distance of 12 km from the railway station and is said to have been the abode of sage Vashistha. Several other temples like the Ugratara temple, famous for its golden idol and buffalo sacrifices, are also strewn across the city. Besides these religious sites, one must visit the Guwahati Zoo, which is the largest natural zoo of the country. The various museums-the State Museum, Anthropological Museum, Forest Museum, and Cottage Industries Museum-are treasure houses of Assam's rich cultural past. The Guwahati planetarium, located on MG Road, is one of the finest in the country. Temples Kamakhya Temple Up on the Nilachal Hill is this ancient temple dedicated to the Mother Goddess. King Nara Narayana of Cooch Behar built the present structure in 1665, but its history goes way beyond. Legend has it that when Lord Shiva carried the charred corpse of his wife, Sati (after she jumped into the sacrificial fire raised by her father), her genitalia (yoni) fell here. Animal sacrifices are a regular feature here and occult has a strong hold. Umananda Temple This island temple in the middle of the Brahmaputra on Peacock Island is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Motorboats from Kachari Ghat on MG Road will ferry you here. The Shivratri festival sees people throng to the temple for a special darshan. Nabagraha Temple An unusual temple, the presiding deities here are the nine grahas or planets, symbolized by nine lingas. On Chitrachal Hill, it is also a centre for the study of astrology and astronomy. Aswaklanta Also along the Brahmaputra bank, this is where Arjuna (third of the five Pandava brothers of the Mahabharata fame) is believed to have watered his horse while undertaking a journey during the Ashwamedh Yajna. Regular ferry services are available. BasisthashramThis is where Sage Bashistha is believed to have lived. Up in the Sandhyachal Hill, the place is very picturesque with gurgling streams and forest cover. Basisthashram is 12 km from the railway station. Lakes Deepor beel Visit this freshwater lake for a splendid view of the distant hills. The Ahom kings apparently used it to dock their ships. Winter sees flocks of migratory birds descending here. Chandubi Are you looking for a serene spot to spend your leisure Then this natural lagoon about 64 km from Guwahati, will provide you the perfect holiday haven. Be ready with your hook and line for fishing or row quietly on a hired boat or best, sit by the lakeside and lose your self in a trance! Others Shankardev Kalakshetra This art academy hosts festivals of dance, music and theatre. It has a Central Museum which showcases various day-to-day articles used by different ethnic groups. There is an open-air theatre and an Artists' Village that is the recreation of a rural township. Guwahati Tea Auction Center (GTAC) The largest auction in India, you can attend it with prior permission. Call 2224516/ 544462 for more details. To complete one's tour of Guwahati, one must visit the Srimanta Sankardev Kalakshetra. Built in the 1990's, this modern complex at Panjabari provides a one-stop review of the artistic excellence of the region.