At a glance In the hills east of Shimla, near the valley of the Pabbar River About the city This is one for lovers of reclusive and exclusive natural retreats, connoisseurs of the eccentric and eclectic with a yen for the good life. Headquarters of an erstwhile princely state, Jubbal's newest claim to fame is its superbly refurbished palace-turned-heritage property. And this in the midst of a rural outpost hidden from the prying world and Old Man Time in a manner that would do the Grimm Brothers proud. You almost expect to walk in and find a Sleeping Beauty, but it is Snow White's bane that is the fruit of this valley of temples. When your palate wants refreshing after the local dainties, walk into the region's renowned orchards for a bite of the local crop non pareil apples, of course! For more enterprising adventurers, there's sights and tribes galore to explore in the quiet miles around. How to reach Road: Jubbal is 2 km off the road to Hatkoti. The only way to reach Jubbal from Shimla (92 km) is by road (NH22) via Kufri and Theog, then SH10 to Chhaila, 15 km from the turn off, then to Kotkhai, another 15 km away, then Khara Pathar 17 km away and then another 13 km to Jubbal En route halts Nirula's at Panipat, Shimla for a late halt Rail: Nearest railhead: Kalka (165 km/ 6 hrs) Best option TO Howrah-DLI-Kalka Mail (dep: Old Delhi 10.50 pm; arr: Kalka 5 am) Taxi to Jubbal costs Rs 2,000 Best option FROM Kalka Mail (dep: Kalka 11.45 pm; arr: Old Delhi 6.25 am) Journey Time Road: 11 hrs Rail: 6 hrs + road 6 hrs Distances 423 km North East from Delhi From Delhi NH1 to Ambala via Panipat and Karnal NH22 to Theog via Kalka, Solan, Shimla and Kufri Best Seasons March to October is best. Avoid July-August (apple season truck traffic) Places in and around Jubbal Palace Few, very few, have heard of Jubbal although state authorities did realise its potential once. HPTDC even ran the Hotel Pabbar in nearby Hatkoti, but it was closed in early 2002 due to near-zero occupancy. People didn't come because they were never told what the area had to offer. A 3 1/2-hr drive out of Shimla brings you to this fairy-tale palace. Perched in a little hollow amid the hills, Jubbal Palace looks gingerbread-y enough to eat. Himachali Gothic Architecture buffs can debate it through, but you won't care once firmly ensconced in its Art Deco interiors. The Imperial Gazetteer of India describes the Palace thus: 'the Rana's residence is built in partially Chinese style, the lower portion consisting of masonry, while the upper half is ringed round with wooden galleries capped by over-hanging eaves. The palace is remarkable for the enormous masses of deodar timber used in its construction. The modern wing, where guests are put up, was built in the 1930s; older sections date back centuries. The timber frame proved perilous when a fire in the 1960s destroyed a large part of the original structure, but it is being slowly restored. The modern wing, however, is well preserved. Designed by a French architect, it's a quixotic blend of European and indigenous styles. The elaborate wooden ceilings are stunning. Then there is all the ancient weaponry, ranging from cannons and muskets to swords and shields. The royals who lord it over this gem have a fierce and proud past, tracing their ancestry to 1027 AD and, anecdotally, much further back. Hatkoti Ruins of ancient temples dot the nearby village of Hatkoti, which is something of a Tantric peeth. No surprise, then, that it is named after the goddess Hatkeshwari. Hatkeshwar is one of Lord Shiva's names. Hatkoti is centred on a walled compound enclosing temples dedicated to Hatkeshwari (depicted as Durga slaying the demon) and Hatkeshwar. The Pabbar River, a perennial river arising in the Chanshal Range just south of Kinnaur, is born of a snow- and spring-fed lake (at 13,976 ft) called Chander Nahan or Chander Naun. Various smaller streams join it on its short journey to Hatkoti, where it meets the rivulet Bishkulti and the Rai Nala. The sprightly Pabbar River has a good deal of water, which it pours into the Tons, a major tributary of the Yamuna, at Tiuni in Uttaranchal. Places like Hatkoti and Rohru were once considered good fishing grounds but recurring floods have reduced the catch. One can, however, walk down to the water through the paddy fields.