At a glance In the Bundelkhand region in northern Madhya Pradesh. About the city In February 1838, a young British officer, Captain TS Burt, was returning from Eran to Sagar in central India. On being told by his palkhi bearer of the wonders of the place called Khajrao, he could not resist an unscheduled stop, and immediately realised he had discovered something of extraordinary importance. There, standing majestic against a background of hills and forest, were perfectly-sculpted stone temples, covered with carved figurines of gods and goddesses: dancing, admiring themselves in mirrors, combing their hair and making love. Ever since that fateful morning, when the silence of the thick forests was broken, Khajuraho has never looked back. How to reach Road: NH2 to Agra; NH3 to Gwalior; NH75 to Bamitha via Datia, Jhansi and Mau Ranipur; state road to Khajuraho. Rail: Nearest railhead: Jhansi (175 km/ 3 1/2 hrs). Hire a cab (Rs 1,500 approx). Air: Khajuraho Airport Distances 600 km South West from Delhi Best Seasons Places in and around Khajuraho had 84 temples, built in the 10th and 11th century by the Chandela rulers. Today, only 25 remain, spread over three locations. Licensed guides available at the Tourist Office (half-day Rs 280; full-day starting Rs 400) will show you around. The Western Group, to the left of the entrance, includes the only temple that is still in active worship, the Matangeshwar Temple, which uniquely features a yoni pierced by an 8-ft lingam. Behind it is the Chausath Yogini, the oldest temple. The Kandariya Mahadev Temple, the largest and architecturally most perfect, houses 872 spectacular, carved statues. In the Eastern Group, on the banks of the Khajur River, start with the Ghantai Temple, now in ruins. Walk towards the Javari Temple next, which dates back to AD 1075-1100. The Vamana Temple is even older. Both are dedicated to Vishnu. The Jain Group of temples lies to the south-east side of the old village. In the centre is the Parsvanath Temple, the largest and finest Jain temple in the city. Entry fee (for all temples) Indians Rs 10, foreigners $5 Timings 8 am-6 pm There's a Sound and Light Show the voice-over is by Amitabh Bacchhan which highlights the temples history. The show isn't on in the monsoons. Entry fee Indians Rs 50, foreigners Rs 200.