At a glance The capital of the Kodavas is at the heart of Kodagu District. About the city Murmuring streams and rivulets, children of the mighty Cauvery, herself born within this realm, wending her way langourously through her land. Waterfalls, deep ravines, paddy fields, sloping glades, grassy downs. Coffee bushes studded with red berries. Pepper, cardamom, oranges, nutmeg, turmeric, lemon grass... a land fecund beyond belief. Flowers like the Coorg Rose and the Coorg Lilac in a riot of colour. Denizens including elephants, the Malabar squirrel and tigers. The highlanders, a martial race of men and women who compel a second glance with their chiselled profiles, stately bearing and striking dress. And, oh yes, crisp air-conditioned weather. How to reach Road: Take the bypass to Coorg via Ranganathittu and on to Kushalnagar via Hunsur. Then SH88 to Madikeri via Suntikoppal. Cross the Cauvery just before Kushalnagar, then be prepared for a not-so-smooth drive as the roads in Coorg are hardy. Journey Time Road: 6 1/2 hrs from Bangalore Distances 237 km South West from Bangalore From Bangalore SH17 to Srirangapatna via Maddur Bypass via Ranganathittu to Hunsur SH88 to Madikeri via Kushalnagar and Suntikoppal Best Seasons Any time before and after the rains. October to May is best Places in and around Coorg was one of the better-kept secrets of the South. Now, it's a honeymoon and backpacker's paradise. Get yourself a vehicle and drive through Madikeri and its lush surrounds, stopping every now and then to smell the coffee-scented air. Madikeri Fort Originally a mud fort, Tipu Sultan rebuilt this fort with stone. Tipu ruled briefly over this region in the 18th century. Inside the fort is the palace of the Lingayat rulers, a simple structure that's a pale reflection of the palaces seen elsewhere in Karnataka. Raja's Seat One kilometre from the bus station at Madikeri, this was where the Kodagu kings would view sunrises and sunsets. The view encompasses emerald valleys, parrot-green paddy fields and in the distance, the grey-blue crags of the ghats. Abbi Falls Abbi in Kodava means falls. This beautiful waterfall is a mere 5 km from Madikeri, inside a privately-owned coffee estate and a big hit with locals and tourists alike. Omkareshwara Temple Built by the Kodagu king Lingaraja in 1820, the temple is remarkable for its mosque-like style, with an impressive central dome and four minarets, which are surrounded by Basavas, or sacred bulls. On the top of the dome sits a gilded ball, with a weathercock. A large tank in front of the temple enhances the serenity. Adventure Coorg is a trekker's paradise, so get those boots on and get moving. Up and down hills, through coffee and pepper plantations, alongside the graceful Cauvery and myriad little streams, whether it's a leisurely ramble or a purposeful trek, it's most satisfying... and great fun! If ever an organisation has been made famous through an ordinary car sticker, it is the green-yellow stag of Coorg Wildlife Society (Tel: 08272-223505, (Ponnampet Tel: 08274-462120/ 22), which Kodavas wear like an emblem on their vehicles. Headquartered in Madikeri, the organisation promotes wildlife and environmental conservation and organises treks to Pushpagiri, Brahmagiri Sanctuary and other areas of Coorg. Their efforts are aimed at increasing awareness about the catchment area of the Cauvery River. The Society also organises licenses for fishing in the Cauvery. The fee for members per rod per day are Rs 250 and for non-members Rs 350. That's a small price to pay for a beautiful 40-kg mahseer, which incidentally you must return to the river. Participants in the treks are asked to bring their own lunch and transport. The treks are free of charge. The Society pays the guides/ instructors. The only pre-requisites for participating in their treks are to own a pair of good walking shoes and to be physically fit.