At a glance Nestled in the Vindhya mountains on a plateau arising off the Nimar plains. The Betwa River runs through it, while the Narmada flows just 20 km away. About the city A Mandu inscription dating from Akbar's time laments unenthusiastically that an owl roosts in an erstwhile royal's palace, plaintively it uttered this warning, where all that pomp and where all that glory Jahangir, on the other hand, wondered in what words he could describe the beauty of Mandu, I know of no other place that is so pleasant in climate and with such attractive scenery as Mandu in the rainy season. Both these responses are valid. In the wrong season, you too could be left wondering where has all the glory gone, in the Central Indian harsh sun that can flatten the most attractive architecture, hotly bewildered at the layer upon layer of history that the Mandu buildings thrust at you. But in the rains, in the rains... Mandu in the mon'soon is easily one of the most romantic of places. The advan'tages of its hilly location come alive, the pastel shades of its monuments are set off by the brilliant natural green setting, and the loveliness is doubled because it's reflected in omnipresent, volup'tuous water bodies talaos, baolis, kunds, streams, torrents, rivulets Mandu can be best described as a hill-fort, teeming with architecture and possibility How to reach Road: Regular buses ply the Indore-Mandu route. There is also a direct ST bus to Bhopal (278 km). Rail: Nearest railhead: Indore, connected to Mumbai (Avantika Express, Pune Indore Express) and Bhopal and Delhi (Malwa Express). Air: Nearest airport: Indore (99 km/ 2 hrs), connected to Bhopal, Mumbai and Delhi. Taxis charge Rs 1,000 (return). Distances 278 km South West from Bhopal 378 km South East from Ahmedabad From Bhopal NH86 to Dewas via Sehore and Ashta NH3 to Indore NH59 to Dhar via Betma SH to Mandu Best Seasons Catch the romantic beauty of Mandu in the rains (July-August). October-March is the official tourist season. Places in and around Only a few remnants of what was once the Mandapa Durg remain today. The most impressive of the Parmar kings' fortifications is Songadh, standing on a slightly detached hill to the west. Since Mandu was most exposed from the north (the end from where you approach it today), this was the most heavily fortified part of the plateau. To reach the beautiful multi-arched Dilli Darwaza, you have to pass through the Alamgir Darwaza and Bhangi Darwaza, built for extra security. The remnants of the fortifications to the east and south are not easily accessible today because of thick forests. Spread over a flat hilltop, 6 km by 8 km in dimension, Mandu can be easily covered on foot. The buildings can be divided into the royal enclave, a cluster of buildings on the right, just after you enter Mandu, opposite Rupmati Hotel. Further ahead are the Village Group, the 'sagar Talao Group and the Rewa Kund Group. Royal enclave Sandwiched between two large pools of water (the Munja Talao and Kapur Talao), the star attraction here is the Jahaz Mahal or Ship Palace. This long and narrow palace is reflected in the waters like a ship at sea, as its name suggests. The unique structure matches the colourful life of its builder Ghiyas-ud-Din (1469-1500). The king, apparently not content with the bevy of 15,000 beauties in his seraglio, surrounded himself with 500 beautiful and young Turkish females in men's clothes and an equal number of Abyssinian females, all in uniform and armed as guards to his right and left sides respectively, says historian Farishta. With pavilions and domes, it is open and spacious. The terrace sports the rare juxtaposition of both round and less-seen conical domes. The place is renowned as the site where Nurjahan killed four tigers with six bullets in 1617. To honour her bravery, Jahangir gifted her a pair of diamond bracelets. Next to the Jahaz Mahal lies the Hindola Mahal (Swing Palace), named so because of the perceptible tilt of its side walls, giving an illusion that the monument is swaying. Built at the end of the 15th century, it's a small gem of a building, exemplifying the simplicity and solidity of Mandu architecture. Its jaalis, restrained tracery work, wide arches and 'swinging walls, all add to its appeal. While no character called Gada Shah is to be found in the annals, he was clearly a man of importance since two impressive buildings, Gada Shah's House and Shop are named after him. Some say that Gada Shah was none other than the Rajput chief Medini Ray, the trusted minister of Sultan Mahmud II (1510-1526). The fading portraits of a Rajput and his consort on the first floor the only example of a fresco in Mandu are believed to be of either Medini Ray and his lover, or the famous Baz Bahadur and Rupmati. You can have a pleasant time wandering behind Hindola Mahal, in a dream-like mesh of ruined palaces, the charming Champa Baoli where water apparently had the fragrance of champak flowers, tahkhanas (cool underground rooms), a hamam, a theatre, and yet another Jal Mahal located on the Munja Talao. Beyond the Hindola Mahal lies Mandu's earliest mosque, the Khan Mosque, built in 1405 by Dilawar Khan Ghuri. It's a very simple mosque, replete with pillars from dismantled local temples. Nearby is the Nahar Jharokha (Tiger Balcony), from where kings possibly gave audience. The ASI has housed an Archaeological Museum in Taveli Mahal, in front of the Jahaz Mahal. Here you can see remnants of a rich past. Entry fee to Royal Enclave (inclusive of museum entry) Indians Rs 5, foreigners Rs 100. Timings: Sunrise to sunset. Still camera free ,Video Rs 25. Museum timings 9 am-5 pm, Fridays closed. The village group The Mandu village square comprises of a few STD booths, grocers, a restaurant, a souvenir shop, and is dominated by the grand Jami Masjid and Hoshang Shah's Tomb. The grandeur is fitting for Hoshang Shah, the second of the Mandu sultans, was a major king who ruled for 27 years and extended the boundaries of the Malwa Kingdom. Much of the fortification you see today was built under Hoshang Shah; the graceful Delhi Gate, off the road as you enter, is worth a look. The Jami Masjid, begun by Hoshang Shah and later completed by Mahmud Khalji in 1454, is said to be modelled on the great mosque in Damascus. The proportions are large, the pillars profuse but simple, and the austerity striking till you go over to explore the western wall. This contains 17 mostly black-marble niches, beautifully designed and carved. There is an ornate pulpit next to the central niche, showing Hindu influences. uEntry Free Timings 9 am-5.30 pm, open all days. The marble edifice of Hoshang Shah's Tomb is rather squat and rests just behind the mosque. At the entrance is a porch with arched openings, crowned by a marble dome. The dharamshala attached to it has a spectacular tunnel of symmetrical pillars. The tomb itself has a soothing interior, thanks to the perforated jaalis that let in the sunshine. The ornate sarcophagus of the sultan is also quite impressive. Entry fee Indians Rs 5, foreigners Rs 100. Timings: Sunrise to sunset, open all days. Still camera Free Video Rs 25. Ashrafi Mahal, opposite the Jami Masjid, consists of the ruins of a madrasa attached to the mosque and a victory tower made by Mahmud Shah Khilji I (1436-1469). Only the base and the impressive entrance of this seven-storey structure remain today. Entry Free: Timings Sunrise to sunset, open all days Still/ Video cameras Free. Don't miss the luminous sky change colours at the sunset point, a 10-minute walk from Hoshang Shah's Tomb. Sagar Talao group This is a cluster of far-flung buildings, set amid water and greenery, and very appealing in their prettiness and a certain lack of grandeur. It has the Dai ka Mahal (Wet Nurse's Palace) and the endearingly named Dai ki Bahen ka Mahal, a very picturesque little eight-sided tomb. Malik Mughith's Mosque, built in 1432, has an innovative porch in the front. On the other side of the Sagar Talao, visit the Nilkantha Palace. Entry Free Timings: Sunrise to sunset, open all days. Still/ Video cameras Free. Rewa Kund group According to a legend, Rupmati would not eat without worshipping her beloved River Rewa. So Baz Bahadur built her a pavilion at the southernmost edge of Mandu, from where she could see the silvery river and the lamp lit in the temple at Dharmpuri. This is the legend of the Rewa Kund, next to which lies the spacious Palace of Baz Bahadur. The view is enchanting from its projecting pavilion and the terrace. Rupmati's Pavilion stands high on a hill, on an older palace. Entry fee for Rewa Kund Indians Rs 5, foreigners Rs 100 Timings Sunrise to sunset Still camera Free Video Rs 25. There are a host of other buildings scattered around Mandu Chishti Khan's Palace, Darya Khan's Tomb, Hathi Mahal and others. Secluded as they are, they make excellent rain shelters with great views, away from other tourists.